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Intro/Strategy

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Lost World is a fun, moderate route that doesn't involve as much wide climbing as nearby West Buttress. Lost World climbs more on the Southwest Face so the exposure and views are much better than Lurking Fear.  LW joins Lurking Fear for the last ten, cruiser pitches. The memorable pitches are C2 corners with only occasional hook or beak placements. This is a good alternative to Zodiac for folks who want to do something shorter and with some aid but also like the free climbing that joining Lurking Fear brings to the route. Lost World is a good step up from the Prow or Liberty Cap. 

 

*Plan: Most parties fix two or three pitches and then spend three nights on the wall.


*Ledge: You need a portaledge for this route. The ledge atop the Anus is sloping but nice, as are the bivy ledges on the upper half of Lurking Fear.

 

*Descent: Getting all your stuff up the summit slabs and over to the top of the Nose takes most teams 1-2 hrs. From there it is an easy 2-3 hours down the East Ledges.

 

*The Elements: Lost World gets sun by 11am, and goes in the shade just an our or two before sunset. LW is relatively low angle and follows large crack systems, so no good in a storm.

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Speed Record

23h:29mins
Ammon McNeely, Ivo Ninov
Jul 08, 2009
  • May 11, 2009 4 days -- Erik Sloan, Richie Copeland, Logan Talbot
  • Mar 2009 5 days -- Erik Sloan, Mike Poisson, Donny Goetz
  • Oct 10, 2008 1 day 05hours -- Erik Sloan, Alik Berg

History

Speed

1. Partner
23h:29mins
Ammon McNeely, Ivo Ninov
Jul 08, 2009 (first one day ascent)
23h:44mins
Max Rodatz, Chip Snyder
Jul 17, 2010 (Squeeze Play--first one day ascent)